Cordelette Anchor System

The cordelette is the most traditional anchor-building system.

What Is a Cordelette?

• 18-20' of 7mm nylon cord
• Tied into a loop with double fisherman's
• Carried on harness in bundle
• Versatile for various configurations

Building a Cordelette Anchor

Step-by-Step

1. Place Protection

   • 2-3 pieces minimum
   • Spread out (not all in one spot)
   • Test each piece

2. Thread Cordelette

   • Clip into each piece
   • Run through all placements

3. Gather Strands

   • Pull all strands toward belay stance
   • Keep tension equal on all pieces
   • Adjust until load distributes evenly

4. Tie Master Point

   • Tie overhand or figure-8 knot
   • Creates loop for clipping
   • Should be about fist-sized

5. Clip In

   • Two opposed carabiners
   • Or one large locking carabiner

Advantages

✓ Simple and reliable
✓ Static equalization
✓ No extension
✓ Works with varied piece spacing
✓ Time-tested system

Disadvantages

✗ Not perfectly equalized if load direction changes
✗ Uses all cordelette in each anchor
✗ Takes practice to get tension right
✗ Difficult to adjust once tied

Tips for Success

Equalization

• Pull all strands with even tension
• Imagine load direction
• Check from belay position

Knot Placement

• Tie close to pieces (less extension)
• Not too close (hard to adjust)
• Check knot is tightened properly

Cordelette Length

• 18' for most anchors
• 20' for widely-spaced pieces
• Shorter pieces for specific applications

When to Use Cordelette

Best For:

• Multi-pitch climbing
• Traditional 3-piece anchors
• When you need bomber, proven system

Consider Alternatives:

• Very close pieces (use slings)
• Need to conserve gear (use quad)
• Frequently adjusting anchor (sliding systems)